As many of you have already noticed, Pea Extract has become a very popular skincare ingredient. But you are probably wondering, as many of  my patients have inquired, what exactly does this extract do for the skin.

First of all, it is important to know that the concentration of Pea Extract, as well as what part of the Pea Plant was used (i.e. Pea, Roots, Stem), yields a different effect on the skin. The majority of skincare products on the market today that contain Pea Extract, or pisum sativum extract, generally use a very low percentage to act as an added all-natural emollient. This provides a nice botanical moisturizer to the product. However, a new, highly advanced patented process puts the use as a moisturizer to shame. The pisum sativum extract found in the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum (its patented brand name is Extraliss) is derived from the pea plant’s roots and embryonic stem. What is derived from these parts is a type of protein, or extensin protein. The exciting thing about extensin protein is that it is plant-based, but has a similar composition to collagen. And collagen (one of the 3 main components of our skin and regulated by Estrogen) is responsible for giving our skin its strength and structure. In the course of skin aging, the polypeptide chains of collagen polymerize, or bind together. The result is “cross linking”, which causes wrinkling of the skin as well as reduction in skin elasticity. So basically, as our skin ages, it loses collagen, which results in thinning skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity and firmness. As a result, ‘replacing’ this collagen, is an ideal anti-aging solution.

The Pea Extract contained in the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum formula does not act purely as an emollient, as in most other skincare products, but the extensin proteins form an extremely flexible, film-like layer on top of the skin. This increases skin elasticity and firmness, while improving skin texture, smoothness and moisture. Combined with kaplanMD’s Phytogenic Triactive Complex (of Soy, Grapeseed and Black Cohosh), which has been clinically proven to mimic the positive effects of estrogen on the skin, as well as balance the effect of hormonal imbalances on the skin, it helps to both preserve the collagen in the skin AND stimulate the growth of new collagen, making the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum the ideal anti-aging solution.

With a myriad of new sunscreens hitting store shelves this summer, and the barrage of marketing hype over ingredients such as Mexoryl and Helioplex, patients are overwhelmed over which sunscreens to buy.

Here are some FAQs that may help you navigate those store shelves :

What is SPF?

The SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is a numerical ratio based on the time skin would normally take to burn without a sunscreen. For example, if your skin burns in 20 minutes, an SPF of 10 would protect your skin 10 times longer, or for 200 minutes. However, while this might sound like enough protection, most experts recommend that you always use a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher.

Sunscreens with higher SPFs may give people a false sense of security, or a license to spend even longer time out in the sun. A sunscreen should be used to protect your skin from normal sun exposure during the day. it is not meant for you to abuse your skin even more. Remember, studies show sunscreens with high SPF numbers only give minimal extra benefits, but can also cause more irritation to your skin. It is more important to choose a sunscreen that you like and feels good on your skin, rather than choosing a heavy duty SPF 60 product that feels thick and sticky. Regardless of SPF 15 or SPF 60, all sunscreens should be reapplied every 2 to 3 hours.

What ingredients should I look for in a sunscreen?

When selecting a sunscreen, look for products labeled “broad-spectrum UVA and UVB” protection. The package should include a list of active ingredients. Look for physical sunblocks, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. These ingredients work by actually deflecting sunlight away from your skin, and are much more effective sun protection than chemical sunblocks, such as Avobenzone, octocrylene, and oxybenzone.

How thick should I apply my sunscreen?

If you are wearing a bikini or swimming trunks, you will need to apply at least 1 ¼ ounces of sunscreen (a little more than a shot glass) to effectively protect all exposed skin. Spread on sunscreen at least ½ millimeter thick, and let it absorb into your skin at least 30 minutes before going outdoors. Also remember to reapply every 2-3 hours.

Do I have to wear sunscreen on a cloudy day?

Even on a cloudy day, roughly 80% of the sun’s UV rays pass through the clouds. In addition to using sunscreen, it is highly recommended that you wear a hat, a light long sleeved shirt to protect your arms, and sunglasses while outdoors. Also remember to apply sunscreen to your ears, neck and upper chest (décolleté). The latter are often-overlooked areas in terms of sun protection, but are equally susceptible to photoaging, as well as skin cancer.

Photoaging is a type of skin aging caused by a lifetime of sun exposure— and that’s not just the few days you spend at the beach every summer. Walking your dog, driving to work, and sitting in front of a sunny window are all examples of the type of sun exposure that you might not think of protecting yourself against. But over the years they can add up to wrinkling, pigmentation, and other signs of skin aging, as well as skin cancer.

It is important to understand that sun exposure, or ultraviolet radiation, consists of three types of wavelengths: UVA, UVB and UVC.

UVA rays maintain their intensity throughout the year. They penetrate more deeply into the skin’s layers than UVB rays, causing damage deeper within the skin’s dermis. Since they do not cause sunburn, people who visit tanning salons that use only UVA do not get the physical warning that they are harming their skin, and increasing their chances of skin cancer. It is important to know that while UVA rays do not burn the outside of the skin, they are the primary contributors to Squamous Cell Carcinomas, other skin cancers, as well premature skin aging, such as wrinkling and age spots.

UVB rays do not penetrate as deeply into the skin as UVA rays do, and consequently cause more damage to the outer epidermis. They are more intense during the summer, as well as at higher altitudes and areas closer to the Equator. These are the rays that give you Basal Cell Carcinomas, as well as other skin cancers.

UVC rays are the strongest rays of all and the most dangerous, but they are normally filtered out by the Ozone Layer and do not reach Earth.

Remember to choose a sunscreen that provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection, with a minimum SPF 15. Apply your sunscreen at least 30 minutes before going outdoors, and re-apply it every 2 to 3 hours, regardless whether it is SPF 15 or SPF 50. Protecting your skin from the sun is one of the most important things you can do to keep your skin looking younger, longer.

kaplanMD is a revolutionary line of skincare products formulated with over 10 active ingredients per product, to prevent and treat all 3 types of skin aging, in one concise and synergistic line.

Skin Care Products, Skin Care Treatment Beverly Hills