Patients are always coming in with bags of products to ask which are the best ingredients for sun protection vs. acne or wrinkles.  Here is a quick summary of effective cosmetic ingredients for each particular skincare concern:

Sun Protection

Broad spectrum sunscreens are the most important ingredients in any skincare regimen. Sun exposure often causes and exacerbates the most common skin conditions. It is also the number one reason for premature skin aging. There are two main types of sunscreen ingredients, Physical and Chemical.

Physical sunscreens work by physically blocking UV rays, and they include:

• Titanium Dioxide
• Zinc Oxide

Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays. Common chemical sunscreens (aka ‘organic sunscreens’) are:

• Octinoxate
• Octisalate
• Octocrylene
• Avobenzone

Use a sunscreen that either has a high concentration of a physical sunscreen (such as 4.7% Titanium Dioxide), or contains a combination of two or more sunscreen ingredients.

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation (dark spots) results from increased melanin in the skin. Sun damage, hormonal responses and inflammation are the three main causes of hyperpigmentation. When choosing skincare products that help lift and prevent hyperpigmentation, look for some of the following key ingredients:

• Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) – helps lighten brown spots, while inhibiting the internal process that creates the unwanted pigment on the skin’s surface, called melanogenesis.

• Kojic Acid - is sourced from mushrooms. It inhibits the melanogenesis process and also acts as an antibacterial agent.

• Rumex Occidentalis Extract – works to inhibit and reduce the formation of unwanted pigmentation, allowing for control over skin tone and skin brightness.

• Hydroquinone – available in various strengths, but the prescription strength is the most effective. However, this ingredient is not for everyone. Some patients complain of irritation or suffer allergic reactions when using products that include high concentrations of hydroquinone. It is important to follow your dermatologist’s instructions and apply the product as it is intended.

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

There are 3 causes of skin aging. The first cause, Chronologic Aging, is the intrinsic, physiological process occurring naturally through genetics and the passage of time. The second cause is Environmental Damage, which can be controlled by limiting sun exposure, adopting a healthy lifestyle of eating right and exercising, not smoking and avoiding harsh weather conditions. The third cause is Natural Hormonal Progression. Studies now show that starting in our late 20’s/early 30’s, both men and women begin to experience an imbalance of hormones. And because estrogen is responsible for maintaining and regulating the production of Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid and Elastic Tissue in our skin, this imbalance affects our skin in numerous ways. Specifically, an acceleration of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, and skin redness. Here are some key ingredients to address these symptoms:

• Matrixyl Synth’6 - a new patented, clinically proven peptide that works to boost all 6 levels of collagen synthesis. Works to visibly diminish wrinkles and strengthen and firm the skin’s structure.

• Ameliox - A potent combination of amino acids and peptides to fade away expression lines. Considered in the industry as a cosmetic cream alternative to Botox because it works to smooth and relax the skin, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

• MDI Complex – a collagenase inhibitor that helps slow skin aging, and maintain younger looking skin by blocking the enzymes that breaks down collagen. Helps to improve the skin’s strength and firmness while reducing the appearance of visible capillaries, redness and dark circles.

• Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) - a naturally-derived component and one of
the Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) of the skin. Its ability to bind 1000 times its weight in moisture allows the skin to retain moisture. Look for high concentrations of this ingredient in your skincare products as it provides exceptional skin plumping, moisturization, and skin lubricity.

• Vitamin A (Retinol) - helps to increase cell turnover and to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.

• Vitamin C (L-absorbic acid) - a powerful antioxidant that stimulates collagen production and helps even skin tone and discoloration.

• Vitamin E (tocopherols or tocoreinols) - an excellent antioxidant and emollient that provides protection against oxidative damage caused by various environmental factors. It is particularly effective when used in combination with Vitamin C.

Acne

Acne is a disorder of the skin, marked by papules, comdones, or cysts. Effective acne products help control sebum production, and decrease the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria. However, it is important to note there is a significant difference between teenage acne and adult acne. While the same key acne fighting ingredients apply to both situations, there of different concentrations that are more effective for teenage acne versus adult acne. If you are experiencing adult acne, consult a dermatologist to get a prescription for adult acne medications and creams.

• Benzoyl Peroxide - an effective treatment for higher grades of acne because of its ability to deliver oxygen into the base of the follicles to kill the bacteria that cause and perpetuate acne.

• Salicylic acid - an anti-acne ingredient that is able to penetrate through oil-filled follicles. This beta-hydroxy acid also acts as an anti-imflammatory agent. It is effective at reducing both non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne lesions. At lower concentrations, salicylic acid works to exfoliate dead skin cells.

• Azelaic acid - an excellent dual-action ingredient. It is an effective anti-bacterial and anti-microbial agent as well as a strong melanogenesis inhibitor.